Cracking the Code: Your Deep Dive into 20 Gauge TSS Load Data
Alright, let's talk turkey – literally. Or geese, or whatever feathered critter you're chasing. If you've been in the hunting game for a minute, you've probably heard the buzz, or maybe even experienced it firsthand: 20 gauge TSS load data isn't just a niche topic anymore; it's a whole movement. For a lot of us, the days of lugging around a hefty 12 gauge, getting hammered by recoil, and still wondering if we've got enough pellets on target are starting to feel well, old school.
Enter the 20 gauge, supercharged with Tungsten Super Shot (TSS). It's a game-changer, plain and simple. We're talking about magnum-level performance out of a lighter, handier shotgun, with significantly less punishment on your shoulder. But here's the kicker: to really unlock that magic, many of us are diving into the world of reloading. And that's where finding reliable, safe 20 gauge TSS load data becomes absolutely paramount. It's not just about saving a few bucks (though that's definitely a perk!); it's about crafting the perfect shell for your gun and your hunt. So, let's pull up a chair, grab a coffee, and chew the fat about getting this right.
Why 20 Gauge TSS is Kicking Butt and Taking Names
First off, if you're still on the fence about what TSS even is, let me break it down simply. TSS stands for Tungsten Super Shot, and it's basically tiny pellets of pure awesome. We're talking about a material that's somewhere around 18 grams per cubic centimeter in density. To put that in perspective, lead shot is around 11 g/cc. That's a massive difference, meaning TSS pellets retain energy better, penetrate deeper, and carry a ton more punch downrange.
Now, why does this matter so much for a 20 gauge? Because that incredible density allows you to drop down in shot size (think #7 or #9 instead of #4 lead) while still having the energy and penetration of much larger lead pellets. Smaller pellets mean more pellets in your payload, leading to denser patterns. Combine that with the inherent benefits of a 20 gauge – lighter gun to carry, less felt recoil, quicker swings – and you've got a formidable hunting package. It's like having your cake and eating it too, but the cake is a turkey and you're eating it with a lot less shoulder pain. Trust me, your back and your face will thank you after a long day afield.
Diving into TSS Reloading: The Essential Components
Okay, you're convinced. You want to roll your own. Fantastic! But before we even think about specific 20 gauge TSS load data, we need to talk components. Because in reloading, every single piece of the puzzle matters, and swapping even one small thing can have big consequences.
Safety first, always. I can't stress this enough. We're dealing with explosives here, so meticulous attention to detail is non-negotiable. Don't ever cut corners or guess.
Here's what you'll typically need to gather:
- TSS Shot: This is the star of the show. You'll usually be looking at #7, #9, or blended loads like #7.5 and #9. The specific size you choose will impact your pattern and effective range, but don't worry too much about that initially; focus on finding reliable data for a common size.
- Hulls: This is critical. Load data is almost always specific to a particular hull brand and length (e.g., Federal Gold Medal 20 gauge 3-inch, Cheddite 20 gauge 3-inch). You absolutely cannot substitute hulls willy-nilly. They vary in internal volume, strength, and crimp characteristics.
- Primers: Another key component. Common choices for 20 gauge TSS might include Federal 209A, CCI 209M, or Winchester 209. Again, the data will specify. Primers aren't just for igniting powder; they also contribute to pressure.
- Powder: Ah, the "oomph." For 20 gauge TSS, you'll often see slower-burning powders like Hodgdon's Longshot, Winchester's WSH, Alliant Steel, or even Herco. These powders are great for generating consistent pressures and velocities with heavy payloads.
- Wads: This is where TSS reloading gets a little specialized. Because TSS is so hard, it can scuff or damage standard lead wads if not properly protected. You'll often use a "TSS-specific" wad (like those from Ballistic Products or other specialty manufacturers designed for heavy payloads and hard shot) or sometimes a standard wad with protective wraps like mylar or paper sleeves. The wad needs to cushion the shot, seal gas effectively, and protect the bore.
- Over-Shot Cards/Buffer (less common for TSS): With some specific loads, you might see an over-shot card to hold everything in place, but with a good crimp and a solid wad, it's often not necessary with TSS.
Every single one of these components interacts with the others. It's a delicate balance, and that's why following tested load data is so important.
The Holy Grail: Finding Reliable 20 Gauge TSS Load Data
Alright, this is the meat and potatoes of our discussion. Where do you find trustworthy 20 gauge TSS load data? Let's be real, this isn't your grandpa's reloading manual from the 70s. TSS is relatively new, and while some traditional manuals might have some heavy-payload data, you often need more specialized sources.
Here's where to look, and some crucial warnings:
- Powder Manufacturers' Websites: This is probably your safest and most accessible starting point. Companies like Hodgdon, Alliant, and Winchester often publish a fantastic amount of data directly on their websites. Search specifically for 20 gauge, heavy payloads, and look for powders commonly used with TSS (like Longshot, WSH, Steel). Always verify the data matches your exact hull, primer, and wad.
- Reputable Reloading Forums and Communities: Places like ShotgunWorld.com, Trapshooters.com, or specific wildfowling forums often have dedicated reloading sections. You'll find experienced reloaders sharing their proven recipes. BIG CAUTION HERE: While these can be treasure troves, always cross-reference. Just because "Joe down the road" says it works for him doesn't mean it's safe or effective for you. Look for multiple sources corroborating the same load, or data that points back to a published source. Never blindly trust forum data.
- Dedicated TSS Component Suppliers: Companies that specialize in TSS components, like Ballistic Products Inc. (BPI), often publish their own load data, usually in conjunction with the specific wads and components they sell. BPI's "Advantages" series manuals are excellent resources, and they sell powders, wads, and shot specifically for TSS. Their data is generally very thoroughly tested.
- Published Reloading Manuals (Limited but useful): While dedicated TSS loads aren't always front and center, general shotgun reloading manuals (like those from Lyman) are still invaluable for understanding the principles of shotshell reloading, safety practices, and general pressure warnings. Think of them as your foundational textbook.
NEVER EVER GUESS OR "WING IT." Seriously. Starting low and working up is a concept primarily for rifle and pistol reloading where you can see pressure signs. With shotshells, pressure signs aren't always visible until it's too late. Stick to published, tested data for the exact components you're using. If you can't find data for your precise combination, don't build it.
Key Considerations When Interpreting Load Data
Once you've found some potential 20 gauge TSS load data, don't just jump in. Take a moment to understand what you're looking at:
- Pressure (PSI): This is the most crucial number. Every load should have a listed pressure. For a 20 gauge, you're usually looking for pressures safely below the SAAMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute) maximum of 12,000 PSI (for 2 3/4" and 3"). Some data might list pressures closer to 10,000 PSI to be conservative, especially for older guns. Stay well within these limits.
- Payload Weight: TSS is heavy! So, while you might load 1 1/4 oz of lead in a 20 gauge, with TSS you're often looking at 1 1/4 oz (roughly 35g) to 1 5/8 oz (roughly 46g) for 3-inch shells, or lighter for 2 3/4". The data will tell you the exact weight.
- Powder Type and Charge Weight: This is the heart of the load. Measure it precisely with a good, calibrated scale.
- Velocity (FPS): While not a safety concern, velocity tells you how fast your pellets are moving. For turkeys, velocities between 1050-1200 FPS are generally considered excellent, balancing speed with pattern retention. Consistency is often better than outright speed.
- Crimp Type (Roll vs. Star): Most modern shotshells use a 6- or 8-point star crimp. Ensure your press is set up to produce a firm, consistent crimp that holds the shot in place without collapsing the hull.
- Component Specificity: I'll say it again: every. single. component. matters. If the data specifies a Cheddite hull and you have Federal, it's a no-go. If it calls for a Federal 209A primer and you have a CCI 209, that's a no-go too. Don't take chances.
I remember once thinking I could just swap a different brand of wad because it "looked similar." Boy, was that a rookie mistake. The internal dimensions, the plastic composition, how it compresses – it all affects pressure. Luckily, I caught myself before loading anything, but it was a good reminder of how specific you need to be.
Building Your First TSS Loads: A Mental Walkthrough
Alright, you've got your data, you've got your components. Now what? Let's walk through the process mentally:
- Prep Your Hulls: Make sure they're clean, not split, and have good primer pockets.
- Prime the Hulls: Seat primers firmly but don't crush them. A good primer seating tool is key.
- Charge with Powder: Use your precise digital scale and throw consistent charges. Double-check your powder type and weight. This is not the step to get distracted.
- Insert Wad: Seat the specified wad firmly down onto the powder. Ensure it's not tilted or crumpled.
- Add TSS Shot: Measure your shot precisely by weight. Gently pour it into the wad.
- Crimp: This is where the magic happens. A good, consistent crimp is crucial for reliable pressure and performance. Start your crimp, finish it, and ensure it looks professional – no gaping holes, no bulges.
- Label, Label, Label! Seriously, label your shells. What powder, what charge, what shot size, when loaded. You'll thank yourself later, especially if you're experimenting with different loads.
Once you've got a batch, the real fun begins: patterning and chronographing. Take your new loads to the range. Shoot them at large sheets of paper (30-40 yards is a good starting point for turkey loads) and see how they pattern. Are they dense? Are there holes? Are they centered? If you have a chronograph, check your velocities. This feedback is invaluable for fine-tuning your next batch.
Beyond the Basics: Fine-Tuning and Troubleshooting
Reloading is an iterative process. Your first few loads might be great, or they might need tweaking.
- Pattern Optimization: Try different chokes. Different chokes can drastically change a TSS pattern. Pay attention to shot size too; some guns like #7s better, others #9s.
- Recoil: If recoil feels excessive, you might be at the higher end of the pressure curve, or your gun just doesn't like that particular combination. A slight reduction in powder charge (within the tested data range) can sometimes help, or try a different powder.
- Poor Patterns: This often comes down to the wad or the crimp. Is the wad effectively protecting the shot? Is the crimp consistent? Are you getting "donut" patterns (a hole in the center), which can sometimes indicate a bad wad or too much speed for the wad design?
- Misfires: Could be bad primers, primers not seated fully, or an inconsistent crimp leading to too much hull movement when the firing pin strikes.
The beauty of reloading your own 20 gauge TSS load data is that you become the architect of your own ammunition. You gain a deep understanding of what makes your gun perform, and the satisfaction of taking game with shells you've crafted yourself is unparalleled.
Conclusion: The Rewards of Rolling Your Own TSS
So, there you have it. Diving into 20 gauge TSS load data and rolling your own shells might seem a bit daunting at first, but it's an incredibly rewarding journey. You're not just saving money in the long run (and trust me, factory TSS shells are not cheap!), you're gaining control, precision, and an intimate understanding of your gear. You're crafting ammunition that's perfectly tailored for your hunting needs, giving you a distinct advantage in the field.
Remember our core principles: safety first, meticulous attention to detail, and only use verified, published load data. With those tenets firmly in place, you'll be cranking out potent 20 gauge TSS loads that will transform your hunting experience. Here's to tight patterns, ethical shots, and many successful hunts with your custom-loaded TSS! Now, go forth and make some magic!